The creation of the Carretera costal (coastal highway) along the Pacific coast in the 1960's and the later paving of the highway to Oaxaca, opened the area to tourism and was the beginning of real growth in Puerto Escondido. Check Out the NEW Puerto Photo & Local News Blog for Zicatela Beach and Coastal highway contruction progress.
Puerto Escondido has grown from a small fishing village of 3,000 people to a thriving town of more than 50,000 people. This growth has been due to Puerto Escondido’s importance as a regional center for agriculture, education, commerce, fishing and tourism and has resulted in the town becoming a vibrant community rather than just a tourist destination.
Find Current Events & News From El Sol DE LA COSTA
PERHAPS I'M FLOGGING a dead horse here, but I think that the idea of Carnaval is very cool. Perhaps that's because I had the opportunity to spend those blissful days of debauchery in Rio many years ago. So I've been trying to get more of you to actually participate. The idea I floated a few years ago was to organize a great conga line, a once venerable tradition that has fallen into obscurity, but a proven ice-breaker *lamp shades optional*. How hard is that? You grasp the waist of a scantily-clad individual and move sinuously to some tropical rhythm. Not too many takers, but if you'd be interested in getting involved, come and talk to us at our offices.
Hopefully we will be more successful in urging you to enjoy another aspect of the Oaxacan experience that is much under appreciated: The pleasures of the natural world. Eco-tourism opportunities are booming here on the coast. Explore the rich biodiversity of this special place. Some of these treasures are just minutes away from downtown Puerto, others could warrant a longer excursion.
We hope you include one of these trips in your vacation itinerary. These grass roots projects help to preserve a fragile ecosystem in these perilous times. They also bring economic benefits to marginalized communities. Everyone wins!
Note: Some of these eco-destinations are briefly noted, because we covered them in depth last year. You might want to pick last April's issue on the Ocho Venado Eco Tourism corridor, for example.
- - Warren Sharpe, Editor
Coming Soon To Puerto
Carnaval de la Costa
March 21 - 24
Carnaval is fun, the idea is to participate: Get a costume, get crazy, be happy and dance in the streets. After all, Carnaval only comes once a year and anything goes!
CARNIVAL, OR CARNAVAL, as it is called in Latin America, comes from the Latin meaning "farewell to the flesh." It refers to the 40 days of Lent, when Christians were forbidden to eat meat, had to wear somber clothing and refrain from merriment.
So the days preceding Lent were the last opportunity to enjoy the pleasures of the flesh and Carnaval evolved as a period of sanctioned excess, of carefree abandon and indulgence in which wild behavior was accepted as a necessary outlet.
The familiar colorful trappings of Carnival, with its wild costumes, masked balls and parades, probably originated in Venice in the 12th Century. But the use of masks and other disguises probably has roots in ancient pagan times when they were used for protection against evil at inauspicious times when malevolent spirits were thought to be about.
The spectacular samba parades and lavish costumes of Rio are the benchmark for Carnaval, but local variations take place throughout Latin America. In Mexico, the tradition is strongest in Merida, Veracruz, Mazatlan and Cancún. Here in Puerto Escondido, Carnaval was revived by the state government some years ago to help give a boost to regional tourism. Many schools, colleges and community groups, including Puerto's gay community, have embraced this celebration, but it hasn't quite taken hold here. Most people just stand about and watch the parades, instead of participating.
But north of here Carnaval is a strong and vibrant tradition, deeply rooted in the Afro-Mestizo and Mixtec communities of the Costa Chica ("Small Coast", which extends from Rio Verde into the state of Guerrero, beyond San Marcos).
In villages such as San Juan Colorado and Santa María Huazolotitlan, everybody gathers during the days of Carnaval to watch traditional masked dances such as The Badger's Dance, the Jawbone Dance among other. All of these dances are very satirical in nature, breaking social and sexual taboos and taking shots at the status quo; even the local authorities and village elders have to put up with taunting and teasing without complaint. The pantomime aspects and themes of these dances might seem naive, but they are very meaningful to the locals, because they often allude to rumors and gossip about neighbors, exposing peccadillos and even naming people who may have committed crimes.
Many of the region's traditional dances share common characteristics. One is that only men dance, even when there are female characters, and the appearance of two characters, a couple, Pancho and Minga. Even though their origins, characteristics or names may differ, they always appear as a rich cattle rancher and his flirtatious wife. The dances also often involve cattle rustling and the hunt to find the evildoers.
In Pinotepa de Don Luis, Mixtec is heard much more often than Spanish. It is during Carnaval that the most elaborate dances are performed: the Dove Dance, the Tiger Dance and especially the Badger Dance.
For Carnaval in San Juan Colorado, the Old Badgers' Dance is performed. Music is provided by two violinists, a guitarist and two drummers.
Santa Maria Huazolotitlán is best known for its Dance of the Little Masks. It is thought to date back to the French invasion. When the French were driven out, the Indians celebrated by staging a grotesque caricature of the French, ridiculing the way they danced, their behavior and appearance. This parody, with its pink-faced masks, became a regional tradition. It's known as The Jawbone dance in San Juan Colorado and Dance of the Dandy in Jamiltepec.
These vibrant indigenous communities have conserved their identity and cultural heritage through these dances and through the ancient techniques of their arts and crafts. But, given the onslaught of global mass culture, these traditions are under attack; Many of the older people still wear traditional dress, but few of the young can be seen in huipil and pozahuanco. Now is the time to experience these places.
Puerto Escondido retains much of it's original charm and is sometimes referred to as "The Mexico Pipeline", an internationally recognized surfing paradise and home of an annual international surf contest. Puerto is very Un-Cancun and offers a rare taste of old Mexico with some of the best beaches in Mexico. CHECK OUT THE SURF - LIVE BEACH CAM.
Call 1-800-880-8068 and ask for Gene.
Puerto Escondido was officially founded in 1928, and has long since been a shipping point for coffee plantations. During the 1960's, when the coast road was built, tourism began to develop and continued to increase with the opening of a small airport in the 1980s.
Puerto Escondido is also renowned for its Turtle Assistance Ecological Camp, located a few miles from the port, and The Living Museum of Sea Turtles, located on Mazunte Beach. The museum is designed to protect sea turtles and prevent extinction and displays a variety of sea turtles that inhabit Mexico's shores.
Puerto Escondido has two seasons, the summer/wet season, and the winter/dry season. With temperatures ranging from 75-95 in the summer and 65-85 in the winter, Puerto enjoys the perfect tropical climate. Sunrise enjoyers will want to bring a sweatshirt for the breezy dawns; otherwise, a wardrobe of swim suits, shorts, and t-shirts will suffice. Most important: bring sun screen and mosquito repellant for all tropical climates.
Bus transportation offers a inexpensive way to travel in Mexico. They generally run day and night. If you are able to sleep in fairly cramped surroundings, this is the way to go. Most cities in Mexico have a Primero Clase (First Class) bus station. They are comfortable and safe. Find first class Mexico bus information at Premara Plus or ADO GL.
Driving in Mexico can be as exciting as taking a bus. Make sure you have current maps and be aware that some listed paved roads are not there at all. Avoid driving between towns in the evening, stick to main highways, take short cuts at your own peril and enjoy the adventure.
